The healing
touch of Fiji Ecotourism
We tried to keep up with
Niumaia, the 69-year-old Fijian medicine man as he nimbly
made his way barefoot down the steep jungle path, pointing
out as we went the many healing plants used by his tribal
mountain people.
Unfortunately, about half way
along our rainforest hike, Niumaia got a chance to put his
natural medicines and healing powers to the test . . . on
me.
Climbing past a cascading
waterfall, my sneakers slipped on the same wet rocks Niumaia
had just scrambled over shoeless, leaving me flat on my face
with my right knee scrapped raw.
Our medicine man swung into
action, heading off into the rainforest and returning with a
handful of shiny leaves. Grinding these into a green goopy
mush, Niumaia placed the dripping compound onto my raw,
throbbing knee.
"These leaves are from the
Bonabulukau plant," the medicine man explained, while
applying his healing touch. "It will stop the bleeding, ease
the pain and help you heal quickly."
Sure enough, the bleeding
stopped almost immediately, and pain seemed to be numbed as
well. Now, the little scar left on my knee reminds me of
Fiji's traditional healing touch.
Niumaia Kavika is a man of
many talents; medicine man, blues musician, and cultural
host at Jean-Michel Cousteau Fiji Islands Resort. Referring
to himself, as a "bushman," Niumaia moved from his mountain
village, where his mother was chief, in 1950 and is now the
resort's ambassador to traditional Fijian culture and
customs on his island home of Vanua Levu.
Though he might not mention it, Niumaia has been awarded the
Fiji Excellence in Cultural Ecotourism Award.
Ironically, the morning of
our ill-fated rainforest/waterfall hike began with a guided
"natural medicine" walk around the resort, where Niumaia
shared his knowledge of the healing powers of the island's
plants. Turns out, the resort grounds are a thriving
"natural" pharmacy, with a wide enough variety of local
flora to cure just about any ailment.
Try the juice from crushed
Drala leaves (the verbena family) to clear up sinus
problems. The leaves of the Jaina leka (dwarf banana tree)
when pounded, mixed with water and ingested, will fight
asthma. To reduce the pain and swelling of a sprained ankle,
wrap the rough side of the Vauleka plant (short hibiscus)
around the injury overnight. Or, use the juice from the
domele plant (common basil), to treat coughs, mosquito
bites, burns, and fever. Name the ailment and it seems
traditional Fijian bush medicine has a natural remedy.
Kava, made from the roots of
the piper methysticum plant, is an integral part of Fijian
life. Drinking yaqona (kava) is an ancient custom filled
with tradition and ceremony.
Niumaia explained that
offering a bundle of kava root as a sevusevu (gift) is the
custom when invited into traditional Fijian villages. It was
a privilege to be invited to Nukubalavu Village, a local
community of 300 people, just down the beach from the
Jean-Michel Cousteau Fiji Island Resort.
As cultural host, Niumaia
helped us understand and respect the social rituals and
ancient traditions involved in visiting a village in his
Fijian island home.
He reminded us that hats and
sunglasses should not be worn in the village, nor should
purses or cameras be carried on our shoulders. Women were
expected to cover shoulders and knees, and sit with legs to
one side.
Sitting cross-legged on the
front porch of his home, the village chief welcomed us,
inviting each guest to come forward and greet him
personally. As guests, traditional protocol meant staying on
our knees, remaining lower than the chief and never turning
our backs to him.
We were then invited into the
village hall for the time-honoured Fijian kava ceremony
where there are strict rules for preparing and drinking this
sevusevu.
Silently watching the ritual of kava root being pounded and
mixed with water for the ceremony, I was relieved to see
they weren't using the more traditional method of chewing
the root into mush, spitting it into a bowl and then mixing
in the water by hand before offering us the drink.
Apparently, saliva releases the root's active ingredients,
so kava prepared by chewing is more potent than that from
the pounding.
Thankfully, we got the less potent version.
After sampling this bitter,
muddy-tasting brew for the first time, it is fair to say
kava must be an acquired taste. Other than a slight numbing
of my lips and tongue, I didn't feel any of the other
effects often associated with this mildly narcotic drink.
As well as a form of welcome,
drinking kava is an important social ritual in Fiji, used to
reinforce the traditional authority of chiefs, to seal
alliances, and to commemorate milestones such as births,
deaths and marriages.
To be part of this ancient
kava custom is an emotional and moving experience. The
deliberate hand-clap signalling the ceremonious sipping from
the coconut shells, was the only sound to break the
peaceful, spiritual ambiance.
The calm of the kava ceremony was broken by an exuberant and
intricate spear dance by the men of the village, followed by
the beautiful and hypnotic hand dance of the women. As the
music continued, we were invited to join villagers in their
dances, while other guests checked out the local arts and
craftwork being sold in the community hall.
You can discover such
wonderful villages and traditional Fijian customs on your
own in Vanua Levu. The southeast coast of Fiji's second
largest island is dotted with small indigenous villages. It
is best not to show up to a village uninvited, but if you
do, the first thing to do is ask to meet the chief. And
don't forget your sevusevu of kava.
Almost all land on Vanua Levu
is owned by the villages, so remember to ask permission
before wandering through the countryside or strolling along
some sandy beach.
Hire a sturdy vehicle to
explore the more remote areas of this scenic, tropical
island. Take the winding coastal Hibiscus Highway through
the lush Tunuloa Peninsula. You'll discover endless acres of
towering coconut plantations, sparkling blue-green waters,
sweeping sandy beaches, pass through small local villages,
and up into the wild green mountains, where rainforests seem
to stretch forever over hills and through valleys.
With truck windows wide open,
the friendly "Bula" (hello) greeting of the waving villagers
seems to welcome you around every curve in the rough road.
Maybe too friendly at times;
as we tried to figure out what to do with the two happy
little boys who'd jumped into the back of our rental truck
uninvited.
We had driven by the barefoot
schoolboys as they walked along the side of the road
dragging sticks and looking adorable in their untidy school
uniforms. Stopping to take their picture, the two boys ran
up and jumped into the back of our truck, figuring we'd
stopped to give them a lift.
We weren't sure what to do
with these two trusting, smiling stowaways - no village in
sight and no way to communicate. Luckily, some bigger school
kids came walking past, and our two passengers scrambled out
of the back of the truck to join their older friends. A
lasting image of lovely Vanua Levu ecotourism as the two smiling young
Fijian boys enthusiastically waved goodbye.
(2008/04/25)
